The Art of Street Style at Fashion Week: What Photographers Look for Beyond the Runway

Street style photographers reveal how they capture the most authentic and captivating looks during Fashion Week.

As the world’s top designers showcase their latest collections during the Fashion Week circuit in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, another equally captivating scene unfolds outside the shows. Street style has become a fashion spectacle of its own, with photographers vying to capture the most striking outfits worn by editors, models, influencers, and industry insiders.

While landing a spot in a street-style gallery is considered a major coup for many fashion week attendees, there is no simple formula to guarantee getting noticed. As four seasoned street-style photographers reveal, authenticity, creativity, and bold choices are what truly capture their attention.

The Search for Authenticity and Creativity

Johnny Cirillo, known for his Instagram account @WatchingNewYork, emphasizes that creativity in fashion, rather than celebrity status, is what draws him to snap a photo. “I shoot everybody,” he shares. “I’ll pass over a big celebrity if I see someone I don’t know behind them in a really good outfit. I’m more interested in how creative people are getting and how cool they look in the city.”

Cirillo, inspired by the late Bill Cunningham of The New York Times, has spent years documenting New York City’s unique street style. For him, maximalism—the art of layering colors, textures, and patterns in a bold, eclectic way—stands out the most. “It’s like a garage sale on their shoulders. I can’t get enough of it,” he says. His fellow photographer, Noelle Ochocinski, echoes this sentiment: “I’d love to see more maximalism through color in the outfits that people wear.”

The Personal Connection to Fashion

Street style photography is deeply subjective, with each photographer gravitating toward looks that resonate with their personal taste. For Sophie Sahara, a street-style photographer for WWD, the key is finding outfits that make her stop and take notice. “I try to look for photos that I want to stop and look at. If it doesn’t make me say, ‘Wow,’ it’s a no.”

Yacout, an Atlanta-based photographer who shot her first New York Fashion Week this year, focuses on capturing younger attendees and smaller outfit details like unique socks and shoes. “I decided to wait outside of Sandy Liang because I knew all the fashion girlies would be there,” she explains.

While each photographer has their own perspective, they all agree that authentic self-expression and the willingness to take fashion risks can make anyone stand out. Cirillo shares, “When I see someone wearing something unique and rocking it, it feels authentic. That’s what I’m after.”

The Role of Consent and Connection

Despite the fast-paced nature of Fashion Week, street style photography remains an art of human connection. The images may seem candid, but they are often the result of mutual participation. “What I really love about fashion week is the participation between the person being photographed and the photographer,” says Sahara. “It’s a hard thing to navigate, but the best thing a photographer can do is shoot people who want to be photographed.”

Yacout also keeps this in mind while capturing the fashion week crowd: “I’m looking for people who actually want to be photographed. No one wants a random camera in their face.”

Cirillo takes a slightly different approach, often taking photos first and asking for permission after. While this works well with the younger, more social media-savvy crowd, it’s less successful with older subjects. “I probably have a 25% success rate when I take a photo of someone over 60 years old,” he notes, a challenge that highlights the complexities of age diversity in street style photography.

The Pursuit of Diversity

In an industry that has often been criticized for its lack of diversity, street-style photographers are actively working to broaden representation. “I try to make sure I’m capturing people of all sizes, all races, even different [abilities],” says Ochocinski. “I think we’ve definitely come a long way, but not enough.”

Sahara agrees, making it a point to seek out more inclusive representations. “There are certain demographics that are showcased more during fashion week, so I focus a lot on trying to find diversity in terms of body, clothing, and just how people show up. I’d love to see more short girls out here repping,” she shares.

Lighting and Show Selection

While the creative aspects of an outfit play a huge role, photographers also strategically choose their shooting locations based on the shows. Cirillo, Sahara, and Ochocinski all plan their routes around shows they know will offer striking looks. For Ochocinski, Tommy Hilfiger’s show is a personal favorite, while Cirillo gravitates towards designers known for maximalism. Lighting, especially the soft glow of evening light, also plays a crucial role for photographers like Sahara.

The Power of Authentic Style

As social media continues to shape the way people present themselves at Fashion Week, many attendees dress with the hope of being photographed. However, the photographers agree that staying true to one’s personal style is key. Cirillo sums it up best: “Sometimes I notice people wearing a lot of trends at once, and it doesn’t always work. When I see someone wearing something unique and rocking it… it feels authentic.”

In the end, there’s no singular secret to getting your street style photo taken at Fashion Week. But for those who dare to express their true selves and take bold risks with their fashion choices, there’s always a chance they’ll catch the eye of a street-style photographer—and make a lasting impression in the world of fashion.